Step 14: Install Mainshaft in Case Lower the mainshaft assembly into the case and hold the 3-4 slider in its half-forward position. Step 4: Install Spring and Detent Ball Place the reverse shifter shaft spring and detent ball in the extension housing and use some grease to hold them in place. If the pin is really loose, replace the cover. Step 11: Remove Reverse Shifter Shaft Pull out the reverse shifter shaft to disengage the reverse shift fork from the reverse gear. Step 10: Install Reverse Idler and Thrust Washer Once I fully chamfer and deburr the gear, I install the forward reverse-idler thrust washer and hold it in place with grease. Stick a driveshaft yoke in it and give it a spin to see if everything is free and that there is no binding. Step 4: Install Rear Thrust Washer Install the rear washer and push the whole countergear to the bottom of the case.
Step 27: Inspect Second and Third Gears Critical Inspection The secondand thirdspeed gears show fairly worn clutch teeth or engagement teeth. Step 5: Install Reverse Shifter Shaft Slide the reverse shifter shaft into its bore from the inside and set it into position just in front of the ball. Pry near the dowel to remove the cover. Step 13: Position Internals for Sidecover Installation Position the 1-2 slider forward in second gear, and shift the sidecover 1-2 fork into second. Step 30: Remove Reverse Fork and Parts Remove the reverse fork, reverse shifter shaft, detent ball, and spring. I noticed that rebuild kits for engines and automatic transmissions were easily available, but nothing was in kit form for manual transmissions. An example would be the date code P8T13, meaning 1968 8 , December T , 13th.
Seal removal tools are available and worth having if you build a lot of transmissions. You have to remove this pin from the bottom. Place detent ball on spring fig. If the case was damaged from a gear explosion, the thrust washers are often jammed from debris. Step 2: A Place Countergear on Thrust Washer Professional Mechanic Tip Drop the countergear in the case, resting it on the front thrust washer. If the gear and hub do not come off, do not use a hammer to try to remove them. The next step is to drop in the reverse idler.
Step 10: Remove Reverse Idler Gear Pry under the reverse idler gear to remove the gear, thrust washer, and idler shaft. Step 2: Install 1-2 Synchro Assembly Install the second-speed gear with the synchro ring and the 1-2 synchro assembly. Step 9: Separate Tail from Main Case Use a flathead screwdriver to pry near the extension alignment dowel and to break the seal. Olderstyle slingers tend to have tangs that break off. Step 9:Remove Front Bearing Nut Always chisel off the old nut and replace them with new nuts that are in the rebuild kits. Sometimes you can pry on this and remove the bearing. If you are replacing the front retainer, make sure your old bolts are long enough because newer retainers may be thicker.
Order extension housing bushing separately. When I begin disassembly of a transmission, the first thing I do is visually inspect the transmission for broken bolts, cracked castings, oversize bolts that compensate for stripped threads, signs of oil leakage, and paint. You can now get an M22 with a 2. Focus on getting all the gears removed and then disassemble the sidecover and extension housing. You can grind down the tang down if it does. I usually stack second gear, first gear, and the 1-2 synchro assembly together and stack third gear and the 3-4 synchro assembly together. Prepare Hub and Slider Assemblies Step 1: Position Synchro Hubs The synchro hubs are positioned so that the forward edge of each hub faces the front.
Most are also seized, and you may need to apply heat with a propane torch in this area to knock it out. What do M20, M21, and M22 actually mean? Most older factory covers are extremely sloppy here. All Muncie transmission cases are made of aluminum, and the identifying casting numbers are prominently stamped in the passenger side of the transmission case. Now is a good time to stick in an old driveshaft yoke and rotate the transmission to see that everything is working smooth, not binding, and shifting. When it reaches the correct color, slide it into the correct position with a pair of pliers. This transmission has two different top covers, cast iron was used from 1968 to 1987, aluminum top covers were installed between 1988 and 1991.
Since the gears are soft, this technique avoids damage to the surface. Once the seal is over the shaft, seat it in place with a deep socket. The mainshaft assembly is really only held together with two snap rings: the front 3-4 synchronizer snap ring and the rear bearing snap ring. Wipe away any excess sealant. Check that they are flush against each other.
Set the countergear up to have the end spacers slightly below the countergear end, usually 0. It cuts a nice slot in the bushing when you hit it with a hammer. This is the Muncie kit I designed and have sold for more than 30 years. You can also heat up and bend a small putty knife to make a similar tool. If you have to press it on, support the bearing by the inner race and press the input shaft into it.
Pull the shaft out and it packs the needles for you. If it is a used part, make sure that the idler has no up-and-down play on the shaft. We use and offer a complete line of high quality new parts in our transmissions and for sale to the do it yourself re-builder. Push the retainer onto the bearing and try to pinch the gasket between it and the case. It takes a wider front-sealed bearing and has a sealing plug for the countershaft. This causes a whirring noise heard only in first gear.
Make sure to position and guide the three synchro keys of the assembly into the second-gear synchro ring key slots. It was actually built in December of 1967 for the 1968 model year. I always replace these with a 20-pound cover spring. Later units have hardened hubs with extremely tight press fits, and you must use a press to remove them. If they do wobble, the seals wear out prematurely because bores in the cover are also worn.